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(Hitch)hiking South America

January 4 - June 6, 2016

Argentina, Chile, Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador, Mexico

The Netherlands

December 21, 2015 – January 4, 2016

🚌 Bayreuth, Amsterdam

Argentina

January 4 – January 26, 2016

✈ Buenos Aires (Spanish lesson in the kitchen, sweet sunset park at the obelisk, crazy drumming in the clubs and on the streets, magical baptism ceremony, dancing with the homeless in the squares, Colombian motorcycle ride through the city, mega church with moving messages and prayers, visiting Jewish and Korean churches, swimming in the tigre, adventures with Pablo and Pepe, from beach clubs to raw meat, san telmo tango, fire jumping at the full moon party)

🚌 Mendoza (lovely lunch in hippietown before crossing the andes)

Chile

January 26 – March 28, 2016

🚌 Santiago de Chile (closed pass, foxy welcome at the border in the middle of the Andes)

🚌👍 Linares, ,pejerrey, Los copihues, Rio archibueno (huge water truck on a tiny stony dirt road, rainbow family welcome, jumping cliffs, loved by new friends, lying on the waiting room floor in the hospital together, dying people and blood in the bathroom, better to peel potatoes, moving theatre plays about the universe, sharing of all and crazy unorganized kitchen)

👍 Pejerrey (mapuche festival, cowboys passing by)

👍 Rio archibueno (days and nights at the delicious clear river, termiskal ceremony, I find reason for unconditionally for myself, bawling at the fire for my dancing, nightly swim and sacred fire on the beach, cinematic speeches in the circle, relaxing at the huge rocks)

👍 🚌 Linares, Puerto Montt (fine food and bathrooms, best places in the night bus with a luxurious bed seat at the top window)

👍 Reserve nacional llanquihui, lake Chapo, metri, la arena (sleeping in a Chilean house of corrugated iron and wood, national park and village destroyed by volcano, vibrant church visit with tambourines)

🚗 Puerto Varas, Parque Nacional Vincente Rosales, Puerto Montt (snow topped volcano, lots of home made meals)

🚌 🚢 🚌 Chiloé, Cucao (welcomed during the ferry crossing by swimming packs of sea lions, finding a mapuche home in the bush, koipus at the campsites and playing with chucaos and tame birds, amazing sunset over the ocean from the dunes, playing with the wild foal on the beach)

👍 👣 Cole Cole (unexpected breakfast and an amazing for when drive ride on the beach, kikfors man helps with river crossings, rainy walk, a beach community dream with an unexpected stay)

👣 👍 Cucao, Chonci (at home with a young gay couple). Empanadas with mariscos, visit wooden church without nails, little house of father full of food, feeling good it's allowed to be human)

👍👣 Parque Tantauco, Chaiguata, Chaiguaca (perfect rides with truck and family, kiss on the bridge, finally alone hitchhiking and tracking in Chile, kids on the bridge, sleeping on the mirrador, building my own fire, zooming hummingbird neighbor).

👍🚢👍 Quellón, Puerto Chacabuco, Coyhaique (drinking boat people and loud music in the early morning in a seedy harbor bar, celebrating hazel's birthday at the end of the pan American / alaska highway, a children's and mothers fashion show and dance, holding hands, skipping and jumping the steps, over 32 hours on the boat, dolphins, sea lions and penguins between the amazing fjords, remote fishing villages only to be reached by boat under the bright moon reflecting on the water, families reuniting and tricks and fish being transported, the amazing blue water of Rio Simpson in the early morning, a great and unexpected pick-up and welcome breakfast)

👍 👣👍 Reserva nacional Coyhaique, Coyhaique (from lush forests covered in mosses and blue and green lagoons to the moonlike landscape of Cerro cinchao, my own route to the top, being part of the family)

👍 Puerto Tranquillo (dancing and cooking while waiting 6.5 hours for the road work, our own cabin on the edge of Chile's largest lake, night dive and prayers)

👍🚢👍🚚 🚗 Laguna San Rafael national park, Exploradores glaciar, marble chapels, Chile chico (spectacular 4 wheel driving, amazing views of snow packed tops and walls gushing with waterfalls, artistic forms created by thousands of years of water, finding, preparing and cooking a roadkill chicken, divine views of the mountains and northern Patagonian ice field, al campo in a slow but powerful truck with new heartfelt friends, a wonderful fast Chilean horse to ride, delicious traditional sea food, ancient Chilean pictures, discussing Dutch colonial history, painting a Refugio, visiting a don and having a sheep feast, horse riding around my Colorado, llama calling from the top of the hill, nightmare tour, warmly received at the campsite)

👍 🚌 👍 Cochrane, Tortel, cochrane (mismatch tracking, disintegrated transport, rain between the ice fields, a fishing village with only wooden roads, abuela, sitting in the kitchen with the campsite owners)

👣 🚗 Reserva Nacional Tatango (swim with the fish in crystal clear glacier river, cooking with the ranger)

🚌 👣 Reserva Nacional Cerro Castillo (sleeping at the glacier, ice avalanches and waterfalls into the lagoon, huemules in the twilight)

👍🚗 Coyaique, Valle Simpson, Lago Paloma, Coyaique (a perfect afternoon on pillows at the mountain lake with real friends)

👍 Parque Nacional Queulat (running the hiking paths playing in the bosque encantado, swimming and dancing half naked for the joy of the perfect view of the hanging glacier, sleeping at the lookout point)

👍 Villa Vanguardia (a hard day hitchhiking, the bag tied on top of trucks, a home cooked meal and bed in one of pinochet's colonel's houses and mate from the traditional woodstove)

🚌 Chaiten, parque Pumalin (3000 year old alerce trees, a pudú with its baby, swim with Chilean dolphins, the village destroyed by a volcano, condors circling in the rising smoke)

🚌. 🚢 Puerto Montt (snowcapped fjords and volcanoes, endless cold rainforests, a ferry rescue mission, an unexpected Arco Iris reunion)

🚌 Curico (welcome with massage on the kitchen floor, asado in the backyard, water from the shower, meeting the parents, giant apples)

👍 🚌  Molina, Curico, los Quenes (folk dances and artesenal specialties, locals whirling with a drum on their backs, refugio at the river, new dog friends, lots of love, catching a rabbit).

🚌 🚗 Curico, Santiago, Valparaiso, Santiago (graffiti and historic photos, flying high in the clubs, parque with wooden totems and highest skyscraper of Latin America, a big family with birthdays, tightrope artists, cleansing prayers in small congregations, Quebrada Macul waterfall shower, Arcoiris meditations in the heart of the city).

✈ 🚌 Arica, Azapa, Arica, Atacama desert, Lauca National Park, Lago Chungará, Putre (mummies and mestizo churches, coca leaves, geoglifos, unique cactuses, quillamas y apaches, snowtopped volcanoes overlooking the desert, antique churches, flamingos and viscachas, eating apache)

🚌 Tacna

Peru

March 28 – March 30, 2016

🚌 Arequipa (muchos nada, sand, dry gorges, a brazilian boy, music on the colonial streets, magic fire and candle lit monastery of Santa catalina)

🚌 Puno

 

Bolivia

March 30 – April 11, 2016

🚌🚢 Copacabana, Lake Titicaca, Isla del Sol, Cha'lla Pampa, Yumani, Copacabana (evening border crossing, pigs and donkeys, inca ruins and table for sacrifices, ruinas chinkana, high mountain lake swim, walking the Inca road ruta sagrada de la eternidad del sol 'willa thaki', party in traditional dresses and suits, altar and gardens, beautifully decorated apaches, participation at virgin de candelaria ceremony in the cathedral, singing at the bars and streets in the night).

🚌🚙 🚌  La Paz, Uyuni, Isla Incahuasi, Coqueza, Volcan Thunupa, Uyuni (crying goodbye from Brazilian boy, cama night buses, cracks and views of the greatest salt flat of the world, giant cactus island, scirping steps, sunset on the flats, a hotel made of salt, nightly volcano climb of Tunupa (5432m) to ca 5200m).

🚌 La Paz (witches market with baby ilamas, self-regulating coca cola prison, hostal life)

🚌👣🚌 La Cumbre, Parque Nacional Cotapata, The Yungas, Samaña Pampa, Chucura, Challapampa, Kusillunani, Sandillani, Chairo, Coroico, La Paz (camino precolombino el choro, sleepy tiny villages between 4 and 5000m, giant butterflies, barefoot river crossings, hundreds of waterfalls, nighty chanting to the waterfall, sunrise on the edge of the cliff).

🚌 La Paz (snowtopped cliffs, delayed border crossing, tripping with churches with colorful tambourines and the whole congregation crying, dressed up children festival mixed with armed military personnel with a pink stripe, mega church with painted faces, drum n bass like music and funky rap, dreaming of a worship dome, perfect afternoon with an ill lady and her the children, going up the telephonica, massage chairs, deep prayers and an abundance of Bolivian food including grilled hearts).

Peru

April 11 – 18, 2016

🚌 Cuzco (border closed due to elections, sent around for money back, prayers in the cathedral)

🚌 👣 Hydro Electrica, Aquas Calientes, Machu Picchu, Machu Picchu mountain, Aquas Calientes, Hydro Electrica, Cuzco (adventure jungle track following the railway tracks, nightly arrival and river energy, rainbow welcome and Colombian boy playing with machetes, enclosed by steep mountains and rivers, nightly climb in my brah, magic of misty sunrise to tranquil sunset at the ruins, adopted by six Israeli boys, hot spring morning, dancing back and a spontaneous bus party despite rain and accidents, conversations and massages with an Israeli army pilot, Israeli and Colombian coca trance party until 10am, my defence today reaction, lots of love, acknowledgements, offers and compliments at the after, money back thanks to lovely Peruvian family, chocolate, hot stone massage and colourful dances, neighbourhood feeling in Cusco).

✈ Lima, Piura  (travelling in earthquake and tsunami times, the dirtiest hotel and most rubbish ever, piglets on the mountain jungle roads, meeting all the right religious and work connections, a blue florescent cross).

Ecuador

April 18 – May 31, 2016

🚌🚗 Loja, Malacatos (san pedro ceremonies, pirate camp, negro love and enlightenment, didgeridoo techno parties)

🚗 Vilcabamba (hippie hostals, my favorite roommate, holy communion and jamming on the square, termiskal panic and safety under the stars).

🚗👣 Chambalabamba, Parque nacional podocarpus, palto falls (fairytale jamming festival at the small lake community)

Pangui, bomboiza, pangui, Gualaquiza (flesh eating bacteria and ayuhasca nights at the taita)

🚌👣👍Cuenca, Parque nacional Las Cajas (the hostel of musicians, a panflute friend with amplifier, getting lost in the misty moores)

🚌 🚓 🚌 Quito, Machachi, Cotopaxi (a perfect volcano blowing smoke, climbing craters and galloping the slopes)

Mexico

May 31 – June 6, 2016

✈ 🚌 🚌 👍 🚌 Cancun, Tulum, Tulum National Park, Xcacel Cenote Reserve (a campsite in tropical paradise, seaturtles laying eggs near the tent, dream lounging in the beach with music and Thai specialties, Mexican guys learning to swim, playing with the waves and the guys)

🚌 🚌 🚢 🚌 Isla Mujeres, Parque nacional costa occidental de isla mujeres punta cancún y punta nizuc, Playa del Carmen (trip with the Mexicans, perfect calm sea under the palm trees)

🚌 🚙 👍 👣 🚌 🚌 Tulum national park, Casa cenote, Grande cenote, Calavera, Mayacity Tulum in Zona arqqueológica de Chichén Itzá, Tulum, Cancun  (cave dives, a huge tropical storm worth bright white lightning, iguanas and a nosebear)

Germany

✈ 🚉 🚌 München, Bayreuth (beautiful arrival in church)

© 2020 by Vanessa Wijngaarden

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